| The nuance of Africa resounds in Lowcountry
life and the culture of a people lives on. Influences
of Africa have touched South Carolina's coast since
earliest exploration days, when Africans sailed with
Spanish galleons 500 years ago. When the thousands of
Africans, later enslaved, survived the middle passage
to reach these shores, their ancestral traditions survived
as well. With the people, Mende and Kisi, Malinke and
Bantu came the soul of Africa, in their language, their
music, their skills and their food preparation, the
rich legacy of a hundred tribes.
The words "Gullah" and "Geechee"
have come to describe that legacy. The Gullah language,
a Creole blend of European and African tongues was born
in the holding pens of Africa's slave coast, and matured
on the isolated plantations of the coastal South. Gullah
accents, words and intonations echo across the Carolina
Sea Islands today. Here, survive the Gullah "shout",
the Gullah rhythms translated from forbidden drums and
the oldest of plantation melodies, reminders of a saved
and sacred past.
Over bridges on the highway threading out from Beaufort
lie historic islands like St. Helena, where during plantation
life African-American pioneers "made land"
from wilderness. Island roads stream out like dusty
ribbons, past fields and woods, past patches of indigo
growing wild, to arrive at Praise Houses, revered since
their slavery day beginnings. Within the walls of these
small structures, religious worship and African elder
culture combined to uplift and console the people. Now,
under the aegis of local churches, some continue in
service to the present day.
Here, sweet grass basket weavers make their exquisite
wares in the ancestral ways and display them by the
road. African "long strip" quilting continues
and people of all ages are called by their "basket"
names. A fabric artist creates magic in indigo and chefs
keep to the flavors of African rice coast foodways.
Storytellers speak their fun and wisdom, choirs preserve
the haunting songs, and scholars translate the Bible
into Gullah.
On St. Helena Island stand the 17 buildings of Penn
Center, established in 1862, as the first school for
former slaves, newly free in the United States. Significant
in African-American history from the time of emancipation,
throughout the civil rights movement of the 1960's to
the present day, this National Landmark District and
active community center, preserves the unique past and
enriches Lowcountry lives. It's conference facilities
host people from around the world. Visitors to Penn
Center and these islands can find accommodations in
nearby Beaufort.
Island roads evoke memories of heroism. Serving beside
the Massachusetts 54th, made famous in the movie,"Glory,"
were the five Gullah regiments, all recruited in Beaufort.
Among them was the 1st South Carolina Volunteers, the
earliest regiment of freed slaves in the South to be
mustered into Union service. The home of Civil War hero,
Robert Smalls still stands in Beaufort. Famous for escaping
slavery by piloting a Confederate ship past rebel forces
at Charleston Harbor and delivering it into Union hands
in Beaufort, Smalls became the first African-American
United States Congressman and a noted Gullah statesman.
A striking memorial to this hero's life stands in the
churchyard of Beaufort's Tabernacle Baptist Church,
his burial place. The 1795 Beaufort Arsenal, now the
Beaufort Museum, is located a few blocks away. This
landmark once housed the Beaufort Light Infantry, a
post-Civil War, African-American unit that included
Smalls.
The popular Nickelodeon television series "Gullah
Gullah Island" (a fictitious place) introduced
youngsters nationwide to Lowcountry treasures. The series
is no longer in production but many segments were filmed
on location in the Lowcountry, the series starred Beaufort's
Ron and Natalie Daise. The Gullah name of Binyah Binyah
Polliwog, the show's fanciful frog, translates roughly
to "always been here."
There are many ways to experience African-American
heritage in the Lowcountry. You can join tours with
knowledgeable local guides who can share insights into
the Gullah heritage. Or, you can explore the Lowcountry's
many oak-canopied byways on your own. The two major
annual festivals also celebrate African-American culture:
The Penn Center Heritage Days celebration takes place
each November, while the Gullah Festival in Beaufort
is staged each May. Hilton Head Island's Gullah Festival
is held in February.
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